Updating our knowledge to help improve quality at origin and why education matters

I’ve been fortunate over the past 3 years to work on various coffee projects, but the one that troubles me the most, is a project working with Robusta in Western Africa. It isn’t the apprehension of working with Robusta that concerns me the most, far from it, but what does is the historical remnants from our Colonial past and the legacies of what was taught that remain.

Year 1

The first year I received samples from this particular area were low grade and frankly the quality was modest at best. However, with some suggestions of what to change and a determined business owner, the coffee arrived the following year with a remarkable difference. A much lower defect count, a more homogenous lot and as a result, a better cup quality. The change in 1 year was notable and expectations for year 2 were high. 

Year 2

There are few companies who currently single out small micro lots of Robusta, but thankfully we are seeing a change. Forward thinking, entrepreneurial, and innovative thinking were behind the second year of working together. 

Small lots were chosen from various producers from different geographical locations and the plan was to try and pinpoint the more interesting lots for future purchasing. The excitement level was high, and I was incredibly interested to taste the various options. 

The company had invested a huge amount of time in this harvest and were hopeful of strong results. However, when the coffee arrived, I knew before roasting that there was a problem. Musty, moldy and off notes could be sensed in the green samples, and although free of many of the defects we encounter in coffee, the cupping results were poor. 

The conclusion of my report was based around drying. I had a long conversation with my contact and asked some pertinent questions to try and identify the cause of these issues, and it did indeed lead back to problems caused by drying, and it was twofold. 

Firstly, the coffee had been dried on the ground, without any protection, where hygiene is compromised. And secondly, the coffee had been partially dried, then hulled, and transported to a drying facility, where drying was finished off until the desired moisture content was reached. 

The coffee had been hulled while still containing a relatively high moisture content (over 12%), then bagged and moved to a drying facility, thus promoting an environment for the development of mold and musty notes. When asked why these steps were used, the answer was “We were taught to process in this way, and farmers trust these historical methods”.

The hardest part of this entire project is trying to change the mind of a producer/farmer when they’ve been taught “the right way” when in fact contrary to that thought, they’ve actually been taught “the wrong way”. 

Education and science are constantly evolving and we must ensure that we are inclusive of everyone in the industry as we all grow and learn together.

New Robusta harvest

Making use of materials to ensure drying happens off the ground!

A high school students perspective about their first coffee origin trip

An Englishman, an Irishman, a Welshman, and Five Latinos – written by Nora SG

An Englishman, an Irishman, a Welshman and five Latinos were the perfect recipe for a cocktail of unparalleled adventures. The journey began when the team headed to Geneva airport. People glanced curiously, wondering where the winds were taking this team of explorers. Obviously, we dressed for the occasion in fashionable expedition shoes and light rucksacks with nothing but extra protective SPF 50 sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and an extra pair of socks. Indeed, we were overprepared for things like the additional Vitamin B (makes your blood stinky for mosquitos), but none of us was prepared for the journey that was about to come. We flew across the Mediterranean from the cold Alps to the tropical lands of Nairobi, Kenya. But the long journey was not over yet. Little did we know that to get to Nanyuki, our transport was this funny-looking mosquito sized plane. The mighty mosquito fluttered with determination and hovered us over the beautiful scenery, landing us safely in our base camp. 

In the mornings, we started by feasting ambrosial breakfasts, rich in local fruits and traditional bread, in the company of Mount Kenya to begin our daily odysseys. We had the honor to meet some of the most hardworking, joyous women I have encountered. The sun shone relentlessly upon us as we carried heavy sacs and mixed the dirt with a bit of spiced compost mysteriously. However, the hard work became lighter as the laughter grew, and we engaged in the utmost enriching cultural exchange. We sang classic Mexican songs with our "angelic coordinated" voices; we spoke Swahili (or at least we tried). The women sang their traditional rhythmic songs beautifully as we prepared them the coffee they grew for them to try for the first time. For me, these women are not only praiseworthy for their determination, but they are also the epitome of empowerment. They speak to a broader issue that tackles the role of women in a patriarchal society. The days weren't getting any less sunny; unexpectedly, the three Europeans survived the sun's merciless attacks whilst us overconfident Latinas suffered from a burnt scalp. As we submerged ourselves deeper in this culture, we visited a school with a sustainable system that kept the children motivated and solar-powered infrastructure. This was when the exploring began molding into research and projects that would allow us to maintain a long-term relationship with this school. 

Our trip then shifted focus. We, explorers, like to get a little thrill from time to time and sometimes this thrill comes from sleeping on sight. Our incredible mama-van was a cozy place to sleep to some, and to others was the perfect opportunity to capture legendary memes. With the mama-van, we entered a surreal world. We shrank as we came meters away from fantastic creatures. Sometimes, we came too close to the point that we got ambushed and chased by a family of angry elephants. But other times, we got close enough to witness a cheetah and a National Geographic live scene where lion cubs tried to hunt a buffalo; lucky day for the buffalo, but no dinner for the cubs. 

It is difficult summarizing all the experiences because every day was a highlight. However, as we got to explore this new world, the team of explorers has pinpointed some initiatives to bring back to Beau Soleil. On the one hand, our relationship with the school has given us the momentum to ideate a range of projects to support and advocate for education. On the other hand, we went through a day of lots of sweat and burnt scalps to learn about the hard work that goes into producing only a few coffee beans. When enjoying a lovely cappuccino or a flavorful expresso, we usually don't think about all the hard work behind that coffee cup. Our company is about tracking the work back to the first production, to the farmers and ensuring transparency so that every farmer gets their fair share.

The year of robusta

C. canephora more commonly known as Robusta, the neglected species which is springing to life. 

As 2020 comes to an end and we enter 2021, I would like to share some positive aspects that have excited me in the coffee world over the last 12 months.

In the past few years, I have been fortunate to have tasted, either while cupping or in the form of espresso, some very interesting fine Robusta. For years, we have been singing the praises of Arabica, complementing this species for having complex flavours and sweetness and rightly so. While on the other hand, many of the remarks aimed at our commercial counterpart, Robusta, have often been critical and frequently negative.

 n the initial point of my coffee career, I was one of those who spread the good word, that only Arabica was worth drinking and brewing. I even taught this in many of my classes, painting the picture with a wide generic paintbrush, that all Robusta tasted bitter, harsh and lacked any complexity. After all, that was part of my experience, and also how I had been taught. The R word was almost forbidden to be used in the specialty arabica world. Well now I’m going to hold up my hand and say I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Yes, of course there is coffee that has implicitly poor sensory qualities, but this works both ways. It’s not only found in Robusta, but also Arabica. If you look at the lower qualities of both green Arabica and Robusta, you can see that its full of defects in many different forms. Poor picking practises, poor farming techniques, sub-standard processing and sorting, all result in lower grade coffee, which typically will affect the sensory outcome, in both species.

However, if you start to pay attention to quality, in all aspects of the chain, you see an improvement. In the Specialty coffee industry, we have been fortunate to have seen major changes in the Arabica species, with many exciting initiatives being used and tested to improve cup quality. And now we start to see this process being copied around the globe with Robusta. 

Recently, I have had the privilege to taste some beautiful Robusta from Ecuador, Mexico, Thailand and Rwanda which have been full of complex flavours, sweet, crisp acidity and as an espresso, a rich, creamy body which many people crave in this style of beverage. 

What is different with this coffee is that it has been given a chance to shine. Picking, processing, sorting and keeping data on the methods used has really influenced the outcome in a positive way.

For too long the market has dictated the price, which for long periods of time has been low. What incentive is there for the producer to produce quality coffee if he/she receives such a low premium. We need to follow the model of Arabica, produce quality coffee and let farmers and producers be rewarded fairly for the work that is required to produce a homogenous, quality focused lot. And as roasters, coffee professionals and consumers, we need to give this understated species an opportunity to shine.

By dedicating the same time, effort and research into Robusta as its counterpart Arabica. By guaranteeing homogenous lots, controlling quality through good picking and processing at each step of the process and marketing Robusta with a strong positive image, we can remove the stigma that has long been attached to this species, and give hope to many farmers and producers all around the world.

Hats off to the following for championing this revolution: https://thissideup.coffee https://www.touton-specialties-coffee.com/?lang=en  Christian Enrique Saltos Morales based in Ecuador @masadicoffee, Fuadi Pitsuwan and Kaleb from Gem forest Coffee in Thailand. And finally Weiley from https://www.roestlabor.ch for his commitment to highlighting some of this great coffee.